TALK: WTK by TOKARZEWSKA interview by Grzegorz Bacinski. Photos by Magdalena Czajka with Natalia from MODEL PLUS & Kiyong & Weronika from UNITED for MODELS.

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WTK- a clothing brand founded by Waleria Tokarzewska-Karaszewicz, Polish designer, stylist, traveler and Creative Owner of the digital agency Social Beauty.As the brand and the people behind it, we love our Planet Earth as well as Fashion. Therefore, in order to maintain a healthy relationship between the environment and our work, we follow simple rules. We shorten the supply chain as much as possible by not producing clothes in sewing outlays, so as not to create harmful surpluses. Immediately after ordering a customer in our online store, clothes are sewn at local tailors in Krakow. We work with responsible subcontractors, because we want people whose work helps us create collections to act responsibly and share the same values ​​towards people and the world as we do.

WTK——由波兰设计师、造型师、旅行者和数字机构Social Beauty 的创意所有者 Waleria Tokarzewska-Karaszewicz 创立的服装品牌。

作为品牌及其背后的人,我们热爱我们的地球和时尚。因此,为了保持环境与我们工作之间的健康关系,我们遵循简单的规则。我们尽可能缩短供应链,不生产缝纫费用的衣服,以免造成有害的盈余。在我们的在线商店订购客户后,衣服立即在克拉科夫当地的裁缝处缝制。我们与负责任的分包商合作,因为我们希望那些帮助我们创建系列的人能够负责任地行事,并与我们一样对人和世界拥有相同的价值观。

Hey Waleria, excited to talk with you, how are you today? 

Hello my dears, I am also very excited to talk to you and thank you so much for your time.  I am feeling great, the weather is wonderful, the view from the window is beautiful and inspiring and I am healthy and full. So the main conditions for my well-being are completely satisfied, haha 😀 I hope everything goes well for you too!

嘿,Waleria,很高兴与你交谈,你今天好吗?

亲爱的,您好,我也很高兴与您交谈,非常感谢您抽出宝贵的时间。我感觉很好,天气很好,窗外的景色美丽而鼓舞人心,我很健康,很充实。所以我幸福的主要条件完全满足了,哈哈 😀 我希望你也一切顺利!

Could you introduce yourself?

My name is Waleria, I was born in the 90s in Poland. I love art in its broadest sense, and for me, the fashion I do is a part of it. I am an enjoyer of travelling, learning about different cultures, BJD dolls, music, Korean drama, delicious (especially spicy) Asian food, Asia and its people. In general, I am a fan of our planet and I care very deeply about its fate. Also, I am vegan.  I am amazed by what people can make with their own hands, all those precise details.  I admire all kinds of sculptures, embroidery, mosaics, interesting art techniques.  Actually, this is where I draw most of my inspiration, especially for the more intricate works – I make them with my own hands. This gives me a lot of fun.

你能介绍一下你自己吗?

我叫瓦莱里亚,90 年代出生在波兰。我热爱最广泛意义上的艺术,对我来说,我所做的时尚就是其中的一部分。我喜欢旅行、了解不同的文化、BJD 娃娃、音乐、韩剧、美味(尤其是辛辣)的亚洲食物、亚洲及其人民。总的来说,我是我们这个星球的粉丝,我非常关心它的命运。另外,我是素食主义者。我对人们可以用自己的双手做出的所有这些精确的细节感到惊讶。我欣赏各种雕塑、刺绣、马赛克、有趣的艺术技巧。实际上,这是我获得大部分灵感的地方,尤其是对于更复杂的作品——我是亲手制作的。这给了我很多乐趣。

First things first, we love your aesthetics, starting from your logo. We believe it has asian influence. Whatʼs the idea behind it?

I am very pleased and thank you very much for your kind words! The style harks back my beloved part of the world – Asia, and the abbreviation WTK is the first letters of my name and surnames. At the very beginning of my career in design, I had a different logo – with my full name “Waleria Tokarzewska-Karaszewicz”.  For one thing, it was catchy, because my surname is well-known in Poland (there are several streets named in honour of my uncle-general Michał Tokarzewski-Karaszewicz); plus, people used to say Waleria with the Long Name or simply Tokarzewska most often. When I performed in the States or in Europe, my name was unpronounceable for foreigners. That is why I changed it to WTK. Let everyone read and understand as they wish. “WTK”- “Waleria Tokarzewska-Karaszewicz” or “Want to know”;)

首先,我们喜欢您的美学,从您的商标开始。我们相信它有亚洲影响。它背后的想法是什么?

我很高兴,也非常感谢您的客气话!风格让人想起我心爱的世界——亚洲,缩写 WTK 是我名字和姓氏的第一个字母。在我的设计职业生涯之初,我有一个不同的标志——我的全名是“WaleriaTokarzewska-Karaszewicz”。一方面,它很吸引人,因为我的姓氏在波兰很有名(有几条街道以我的叔叔将军 Michał Tokarzewski-Karaszewicz 的名字命名);另外,人们过去常常用长名或简称 Tokarzewska 来称呼 Waleria。当我在美国或欧洲演出时,我的名字对于外国人来说是无法发音的。这就是我将其更改为WTK的原因。让大家随心所欲地阅读和解。“WTK”-“WaleriaTokarzewska-Karaszewicz”或“想知道”;)

It wasn’t an easy year for all the creative fields but not only, did you become more quiet? or did you focus your energy on other aspects ? or what were your thoughts on waiting a year to release a new collection ? 

It has not been an easy year mainly because staying put was something new for me. I am one of those people who follows the law and the advice of doctors, so I am not a rebel when it comes to safety. However, every cloud has a silver lining and you need to look on the bright side! Firstly, I planted a lot of plants, herbs and vegetables. I have not done this before. This has given me great pleasure and peace of mind, plus I have eaten many of these vegetables and herbs, so I am healthier 😉 I also had more time to focus on developing my second company – a digital agency that my better half and I are setting up together. It was a good time for our agency. I also found moments for my great passion – BJD dolls. This is something that makes me very happy, absorbs me completely and puts a sparkle in my eyes. Apart from creating doll designs (I will show them to you one day ;)) I paint them, make their wigs, shoes, eyes and all that 😉 If I didn’t take up fashion, I would definitely devote myself to creating ball-jointed-dolls.

About fashion, well… I have done 2 collections every year since 2015. In 2020, I decided to take a break. Not because fashion tired me – not at all. I just didn’t feel it was the right time in a business and moral sense. Since a lot of people lost their jobs at that time and had health and financial problems, I wouldn’t have felt comfortable releasing a new collection. It was not a good time for it.

Instead, I organised a charity event. I sewed more than 700 masks with my own hands when there was a shortage in Poland. I sent them to people who wrote to me – at my own expense.  The condition was that in exchange for the masks from me, they would send money (exactly as much as they wanted and could afford at that time) to the hospital, nursing home or animal shelter of their choice. You know, it was a time when hospitals and nursing homes were short of everything. There was no food for the animals in animal shelters. Most of the people I gave masks to sent me transfer receipts. In total, my campaign collected over PLN 30 000 to help those in need. I love this type of initiative, because then I can clearly feel that we are all on the same page, sharing the same values and living among nice people.

对于所有创意领域来说,这都不是轻松的一年,但不仅如此,你变得更安静了吗?还是您将精力集中在其他方面?或者你对等一年有什么像发布新系列的想法?

这不是轻松的一年,主要是因为留在原地对我来说是新事物。我是那些遵守法律和医生建议的人之一,所以在安全方面我不是叛逆者。然而,每一朵云都有一线希望,你需要看到光明的一面!首先,我种了很多植物、药草和蔬菜。我以前没有这样做过。这给了我很大的快乐和安心,加上我吃了很多这些蔬菜和草药,所以我更健康了;)我也有更多的时间专注于发展我的第二家数字中介 – 我和我的另一半正在一起搭建。这对我们的中介来说是个好时机。我还找到了我的激情所在——BJD 娃娃。这让我非常开心,完全吸收了我,让我的眼睛闪闪发光。除了制作娃娃设计(我有一天会展示给你看;))我画它们,制作它们的假发、鞋子、眼睛等等;)如果我不从事时尚,我一定会致力于创造球关节娃娃。

关于时尚,嗯……自 2015 年以来,我每年都做 2 个系列。2020 年,我决定休息一下。不是因为时尚让我感到厌烦——一点也不。我只是觉得从商业和道德意义上来说,这不是正确的时机。由于当时很多人失去了工作,并且有健康和经济问题,我不会觉得发布一个新系列很舒服。这不是一个好时机。

相反,我组织了一个慈善活动。波兰缺货时,我亲手缝制了700多个口罩。我把它们寄给给我写信的人——费用由我自己承担。条件是,为了换取我的口罩,他们会向他们选择的医院、疗养院或动物收容所寄钱(完全按照他们当时想要和负担得起的金额)。你知道,那是一个医院和疗养院什么都缺的时代。动物收容所里的动物没有食物。我给口罩的大多数人都给我寄了转账收据。我的竞选活动总共筹集了超过 30000 兹罗提来帮助有需要的人。我喜欢这种主动性,因为那时我可以清楚地感觉到我们都在同一页上,分享相同的价值观并生活在好人之间。

How would you describe your style of fashion ?

It’s definitely eclectic. I love combining styles and mixing techniques, having fun with combinations of high fashion and kitsch, haute couture and street wear, lace and glittering crystals with polyamide, wool with sequin, large checks with small checks. I love the possibilities offered by the combination of colours and patterns. I draw the graphics myself in my designs, so choosing patterns gives me a lot of comfort.

I like how things that are around me. They nurture me in an aesthetic sense. If looking at something makes me feel happy, joyful, stimulated, inspired, excited, if something is impressive and interesting – these are the kinds of things I try to do. From an early age I was fascinated by colours and things with lots of parts in them. I could stand in front of displays with colourful rubber bands and hair clips for hours on end, contemplating all the colours, textures and glitter. I admired them and imagined the countless possibilities of combining them with each other. I was always accompanied by my faithful companion, Grandpa, who had endless patience for me and – as far as I can remember – we did everything together, including watching Fashion TV for hours. He always supported and never criticised me. He even gave me compliments which I think helped me to believe in myself as I grew up.

My style is about good emotions. My works are supposed to bring people smile, happiness, and freedom, make them slaugh, make them sigh, make them FEEL. I would like for my works to give the audiences a break from the daily grind.

Someone told me once that my work is infantile. It was about the ‘FutureFunk’ collection.  I should add that it was a stylist, a person who by virtue of her profession should have an open, creative mind. This bothered me enormously when I thought about it more. Why would someone think that when something is colourful and fun it’s childish, and when something is subdued, maybe black, it’s ‘grown up’ and ‘serious’? And why does ‘childish’ mean ‘negative’, when childhood is about energy, dreams, fairy tales and hope? What is this division anyway? When you become an adult, do you have to abandon colours and dress ‘as expected’? Just being an adult and paying bills is stressful, and someone says that growing up requires adjusting to a certain narrow palette of colours. Madness! This kind of thinking is immature and sad, colours and joy are good. People cast things in different roles and give them specific meaning. They’d better go see a good film or a Korean drama (almost every drama is good ;)), read a book, go to an art gallery or eat delicious dumplings with soy sauce. Let’s not waste time limiting ourselves.

你会如何描述你的时尚风格?

绝对是不拘一格的。我喜欢将风格和混合技巧结合起来,享受高级时装和媚俗、高级时装和街头服饰、蕾丝和闪闪发光的水晶与聚酰胺、羊毛与亮片、大格子与小格子的组合的乐趣。我喜欢颜色和图案组合所提供的可能性。我自己在我的设计中绘制图形,所以选择图案让我很舒服。

我喜欢我周围的事物。他们从审美的角度养育了我。如果看某件事让我感到快乐、快乐、刺激、启发、兴奋,如果某件事令人印象深刻和有趣——这些就是我尝试做的事情。从很小的时候起,我就对颜色和有很多部分的东西着迷。我可以连续几个小时站在五颜六色的橡皮筋和发夹的摆设前,思考所有的颜色、纹理和闪光。我钦佩它们,并想象着将它们相互结合的无数可能性。我的忠实伙伴爷爷一直陪伴着我,爷爷对我有无尽的耐心,而且,从我记事以来,我们一起做了所有事情,包括看几个小时的时尚电视。他一直支持我,从不批评我。他甚至给了我赞美,我认为这帮助我在长大后相信自己。

我的风格是关于良好的情绪。我的作品应该给人们带来微笑、快乐和自由,让他们杀戮,让他们叹息,让他们感受。我希望我的作品能让观众从日常的工作中解脱出来。

曾经有人告诉我,我的工作是幼稚的。这是关于“FutureFunk”系列的。我应该补充一点,这是一位造型师,一个凭借她的职业应该拥有开放、创造性思维的人。当我想得更多时,这让我非常困扰。为什么有人会认为,当一些东西色彩缤纷、有趣时,它是幼稚的,而当一些东西是柔和的,也许是黑色的,它是“成熟的”和“严肃的”?当童年是关于能量、梦想、童话和希望的时候,为什么“幼稚”意味着“消极”?这个分裂到底是什么?当你长大成人后,你是否必须放弃色彩并“按预期”着装?只是作为一个成年人并支付账单是有压力的,有人说成长需要适应某种狭窄的调色板。疯狂!这种思维是幼稚而悲伤的,色彩和欢乐是美好的。人们将事物赋予不同的角色并赋予它们特定的含义。他们最好去看一部好电影或一部韩剧(几乎每一部剧都很好;)),读一本书,去美术馆或吃美味的酱油饺子。让我们不要浪费时间限制自己。

When we think about your latest collection “Refresh” we see this happiness and energy floating in the best way scenario. What was the process of creating such pieces of art, including concepts of your photoshoots which are on point including current problems in a fun way.

It is a huge compliment and I thank you for interpreting the ‘Refresh’ collection in such a way, because that is what I wanted. ‘Refresh’ is a response to the mood of the recent year. After the pandemic hiatus, I wanted to invite all my customers to take a journey through the inspirations of the 2000s (where all kinds of ties, exposed bellies, bell-bottoms, and seams reigned supreme), while also incorporating the forms of the 80s and contemporary Asian oversize. The leading theme is colour, which is so necessary in our lives, especially when the situation is not colourful.  The collection, as well as the image session itself, is saturated with the longing for holidays, readiness for travel and challenges. The clothes are waiting impatiently for an opportunity to shine their colour on the street or during the first holiday away from home. The photo shoot was done in the studio, where and my team and I set up a fictional beach scene at the Polish Baltic Sea, so reminiscent of holidays. Still frames from campaign films and of the collection announcement came from my travels. The films are a combination of studio and outdoor shots, and stills from my travel in Asia.  Both the music and the editing carry a pinch of anxiety, impatience as we wait for the return of stability and the ability to explore the furthest corners of the world.

‘Refresh’ is dominated by the author’s own pattern in many shades based on neon, as well as colour-rich plain materials such as jacquards, glossy nets and coated canvas. The collection consists of 2 parts. The first is the avant-garde ‘Premium’ line with oversized, over-scaled suits puffy at the shoulders, short tops, ties and tulle dresses. The clothes were named after times of the day related to the sun, which paints beautiful colourful gradients in the sky, as well as to the summer. That is why the collection features VIOLET SUNSET, SUNRISE, SUNSHINE, CORAL REEF and TROPICAL LAGOON. The line is called ‘BASIC’, or rather ‘BASIC FRUITS’ and it is dominated by knitwear – sweatshirts, T-shirts, velour bell-bottoms and shorts. Why BASIC FRUITS? Because the names of the clothes have been assigned to fruits that have the same colours and which are associate with summer. The silhouettes, despite their often exaggerated shapes, are meant to be practical and comfortable, trousers predominate over elaborately decorated dresses, which were far more prevalent in previous collections.

当我们想到你的最新系列列“Refresh”时,我们会看到这种幸福和能量以最佳方式漂浮。创作这样的艺术作品的过程是什么,包括你的拍摄概念,这些概念以一种有趣的方式反映当前的问题。

这是一个巨大的赞美,我感谢你以这种方式解释“Refresh”系列,因为这就是我想要的。“Refresh”是对近年来情绪的回应。大流行后,我想邀请我的所有客户一起穿越 2000 年代的灵感之旅(各种领带、露肚皮、喇叭裤和接缝至高无上),同时也融入 80 年代的形式和当代亚洲超大号。主要主题是色彩,这在我们的生活中非常必要,尤其是在情况不丰富多彩的情况下。该系列以及图像会话本身都充满了对假期的渴望、旅行的准备和挑战。这些衣服正在不耐烦地等待机会在街上或第一个离家度假期间闪耀它们的色彩。照片拍摄是在工作室完成的,我和我的团队在波兰波罗的海设置了一个虚构的海滩场景,让人想起假期。竞选影片和系列公告的静止画面来自我的旅行。这些电影结合了工作室和户外镜头,以及我在亚洲旅行时的剧照。当我们等待回归稳定和探索世界最远角落的能力时,音乐和剪辑都带着一丝焦虑和不耐烦。

“Refresh”以作者自己的以荧光色为基础的多种色调图案为主,以及提花、光面网和涂层帆布等色彩丰富的素色材料。该系列由 2 个部分组成。第一个是前卫的“Premium”系列,包括超大尺寸、超大廓形的肩部蓬松的西装、短上衣、领带和薄纱连衣裙。这些衣服以一天中与太阳有关的时间命名,太阳在天空中描绘出美丽的彩色渐变,以及夏天。这就是为什么该系列以紫罗兰日落、日出、阳光、珊瑚礁和热带泻湖为特色。该系列被称为“BASIC”,或者更确切地说是“BASIC FRUITS”,它以针织品为主——运动衫、T 恤、丝绒喇叭裤和短裤。为什么选择基本水果?因为衣服的名字已经被分配给颜色相同且与夏天相关的水果。廓形虽然经常夸张,但旨在实用和舒适,长裤在装饰精美的连衣裙上占主导地位,而后者在以前的系列中更为流行。

Going back to your previous collection “Love is Love” – you are implementing a young futuristic way of living in a dreamy, lovely and optimistic way. We would love to confirm the message of Love? How would you describe love in Poland?

The ‘Love is Love’ collection was a reaction and a demonstration in response to the atmosphere in Poland affecting my wonderful LGBTQ+ friends. You know, it was that time of the Equality March in Białystok in 2019. I don’t even want to mention what happened in politics in 2020, because words can’t even begin to describe it. Just thinking about it makes me want to cry. I am ashamed that in the 21st century the issue of sexual orientation can be a reason for discrimination and for dividing people into ‘better’ and ‘worse’. In my perception and understanding of the world, any prejudice is unacceptable. I understand that they come only from lack of knowledge. Because if we don’t have knowledge about a something, it scares us, seems strange and threatening. But come on… Every human of the 8 billion in the world is exactly the same and has identical needs. Each of us was a child. Each of us has experienced greater or lesser traumas and dramas and is made of similar scars. Everyone has a need to belong to society. They want to be accepted, loved and understood, they need affection and warmth in order to develop properly. Everyone dreams of a good life, needs a purpose, wants to know what will happen after death, feels pain, hunger, cold. Regardless of their skin colour, religion, nationality, orientation. What right do any of these identical people have to say that some love is better and another has no right to exist? For love to be ‘good’, only one condition needs to be met. Respect the other person and respect yourself.

The “Love is Love” collection – warm, colourful, joyful, filled with graphics that call out for affirmation, and maxims about equality – is more than just a collection of clothes. It is a form of social campaign promoting and supporting LGBTQ+ education. In creating and drawing inspiration from it, I wanted to raise public awareness and improve the situation of LGBTQ+ people in our country, to spread the word, to invite to education and mutual respect. For me, and therefore for the WTK brand, empathy, understanding and tolerance are among the most important values, and the pursuit of a proud, dignified life that every human being deserves will always be what I believe in.

Love cannot exclude us, it has to unite us regardless of social class, colour, orientation, politics or faith. By speaking openly about support and full acceptance, I believe that I will inspire others to do so, or at least intrigue someone to learn more about the topic and increase the space in their heart.

回到你之前的系列“Love is Love”——你正在以一种梦幻、可爱和乐观的方式实现一种年轻的未来主义生活方式。我们很想确认爱的讯息?你会如何形容波兰的爱情?

“爱就是爱”系列是对波兰影响我美妙的 LGBTQ+ 朋友的气氛的反应和示范。要知道,那是 2019 年比亚韦斯托克平等大游行的那个时候。我什至不想提及 2020 年政治上发生的事情,因为语言甚至无法描述它。光是想想就想哭。我感到羞耻的是,在 21 世纪,性取向问题可能成为歧视和将人们划分为“更好”和“更差”的原因。在我对世界的认知和理解中,任何偏见都是不可接受的。我知道他们只是来自缺乏知识。因为如果我们对某件事一无所知,它会让我们感到害怕,看起来很奇怪和有威胁性。但是来吧……世界上 80 亿人中的每个人都完全一样,都有相同的需求。我们每个人都是一个孩子。我们每个人都经历过或多或少的创伤和戏剧,并由类似的伤疤组成。每个人都有属于社会的需要。他们想要被接受、被爱和被理解,他们需要爱和温暖才能正常发展。每个人都梦想着美好的生活,需要一个目标,想知道死后会发生什么,感到痛苦、饥饿、寒冷。无论他们的肤色、宗教、国籍、取向如何。这些相同的人有什么权利说有些爱更好而另一种没有权利存在?爱情要“好”,只需要满足一个条件。尊重他人,尊重自己。

“爱就是爱”系列——温暖、多彩、快乐,充满了需要肯定的图形,以及关于平等的格言——不仅仅是一个服装系列。这是一种促进和支持 LGBTQ+ 教育的社会运动形式。在创作和从中汲取灵感的过程中,我想提高公众意识,改善我国 LGBTQ+ 人群的状况,传播信息,邀请教育和相互尊重。对我来说,对WTK品牌来说,同理心、理解和宽容是最重要的价值观之一,追求每个人都应得的自豪、有尊严的生活将永远是我的信念。

爱不能排斥我们,它必须将我们团结起来,无论社会阶层、肤色、取向、政治或信仰如何。通过公开谈论支持和完全接受,我相信我会激励其他人这样做,或者至少会引起人们对这个话题的更多了解并增加他们心中的空间。

Speaking about your success. Your bold, extra avangarde and vibrant collections are always way ahead. You were featured in most prestigious fashion magazines like Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar , Elle to name a few. In your opinion, what was the breaking point in your career?

Honestly, I don’t remember such a breaking point 😀 Maybe it’s because I try to enjoy everything on a regular basis. Every little success is a huge success for me, of which I am extremely proud. I collect them all in my memory archive and return to them with pleasure.  I remember when Kasia Nosowska, whom I have adored since childhood, wrote to me. Her email was for me like a kiss from God ;))) I was also very proud when my collection ‘Love is Love’ appeared in a commercial featuring Billie Eilish. I also had a lot of fun with my first or second film in which my clothes and my brand signatures appear. Another big joy was being published in the Polish edition of Vogue Polska. I had already been published in international editions of Vogue, but it was the ‘Refresh’ collection that was the first one published in this cult monthly. I am very happy about all of this, but it never ceases to amaze and surprise me.

I don’t know if this sounds the way I would like it to, but I just can’t believe that in a country like Poland, where the streets are rather grey and if someone has money and wants to invest in fashion, they buy a Gucci in Milan, my brand has taken off and is thriving. It’s the biggest success for me that people buy my designs. They’re not cheap, they’re not universal, you can’t give them away like H&M. So people buying my clothes is for me a real confirmation that what I do is good and valuable. I’m not an influencer, most people have no idea what I look like, who I am, if I’m cool or dumb haha 😀 And today, it’s people like that who sell their products best – people who are to some extent products themselves. I don’t mean that in a negative way! Being a “product” is very cool if you feel it and like it. I’m just not like that, but I’m hanging around nonetheless.

谈论你的成功。您的大胆、前卫和充满活力的系列总是遥遥领先。您曾出现在最负盛名的时尚杂志上,例如Vogue、Harper’s Bazaar、Elle 等等。在你看来,你职业生涯的转折点是什么?

老实说,我不记得这样的突破点:D 也许是因为我尝试定期享受一切。每一个小小的成功对我来说都是巨大的成功,我为此感到无比自豪。我将它们全部收集在我的记忆档案中,并愉快地返回它们。我记得我从小就崇拜的 Kasia Nosowska 给我写信的时候。她的电子邮件对我来说就像上帝的吻;))) 当我的收藏品“Love is Love”出现在 Billie Eilish 的广告中时,我也感到非常自豪。我的第一部电影或第二部电影也很有趣,我的衣服和品牌签名出现在其中。波兰版的《Vogue Polska》发表了另一件大喜事。我已经在《Vogue》的国际版上发表过文章,但“Refresh”系列是这个邪典月刊上第一个发表的作品。我对这一切感到非常高兴,但它从未停止让我感到惊讶和惊讶。

我不知道这听起来是不是我喜欢的方式,但我无法相信在像波兰这样的国家,街道相当灰暗,如果有人有钱想投资时尚,他们会购买米兰的 Gucci,我的品牌已经起飞并蓬勃发展。人们购买我的设计对我来说是最大的成功。它们并不便宜,也不是通用的,你不能像 H&M 那样把它们送人。所以人们买我的衣服对我来说是一个真正的确认,我所做的事情是好的和有价值的。我不是一个有影响力的人,大多数人都不知道我长什么样,我是谁,我是酷还是笨哈哈产品本身。我的意思不是消极的!如果您感觉到并喜欢它,那么成为“产品”会非常酷。我只是不那样,但我仍然在闲逛.

Besides your fashion skills you are working as a stylist and you did collaborate with celebrities like Young Leosia , Cleo or Nosowska? How would you describe working with them? Are there more collaborations on the way?

It’s a great compliment for me when people like my clothes and want to wear them! And if they trust my sense of taste, trust me with their entire stylings, clips and other projects, it’s a joy for me. Will there be more such projects? I hope so – time will tell. 🙂

除了你的时尚技巧,你还是一名造型师,你确实与名人合作 像 Young Leosia、Cleo 还是 Nosowska?你会如何描述与他们合作?是否还有更多的合作?

当人们喜欢我的衣服并想穿它们时,这对我来说是一种很好的赞美!如果他们相信我的品味,相信我的整个造型、剪辑和其他项目,这对我来说是一种快乐。还会有更多这样的项目吗?我希望如此——时间会证明一切。:)

What would be your piece of advice for a person who is going to start a fashion career ? 

I would recommend to such a person that they should familiarise themselves with every stage of production. I think that without in-depth knowledge of the material, construction, sewing skills, etc., it is difficult to communicate with subcontractors properly. When you know all the stages of production inside out, you know what you’re talking about, what’s realistically achievable, what you can expect and what’s not possible. It is also very important to have a plan, even if it’s only an outline. You need to know what it’s about, what our goals are, who our clients are, who we’re designing for, how we see our brand’s DNA. A lot of people forget about this, they create things for no one and then unfortunately don’t see the connection with the fact that the clothes don’t sell.  Well, I would tell that person to start their career and not overthink! 🙂 Let them create what is best at the moment, there will still be time for dresses straight from the red carpet. The first step is the hardest to take, it is important not to give up and to demand a lot from yourself, to work on your skills.

对于即将开始时尚事业的人,您有什么建议?

我会向这样的人建议他们应该熟悉生产的每个阶段。我认为如果没有对材料、结构、缝纫技术等方面的深入了解,很难与分包商进行适当的沟通。当您完全了解生产的所有阶段时,您就会知道自己在说什么,什么是现实可以实现的,什么是您可以期待的,什么是不可能的。有一个计划也很重要,即使它只是一个大纲。你需要知道它是关于什么的,我们的目标是什么,我们的客户是谁,我们为谁设计,我们如何看待我们品牌的 DNA。很多人忘记了这一点,他们为任何人创造东西,然后不幸地看不到与衣服不卖这一事实的联系。好吧,我会告诉那个人开始他们的职业生涯,不要想太多! 🙂 让他们创造当下最好的东西,仍然有时间直接从红地毯上挑选礼服。第一步是最难迈出的,重要的是不要放弃,对自己提出很多要求,努力提高自己的技能。

You are a stylist, fashion designer , traveler and plenty of others ?

What do you love the most?

Fashion and travel. I don’t think I could give up either of those things. Travelling inspires me and fashion allows me to transfer this energy into something tangible.

您是造型师、时装设计师、旅行者和其他许多人?你最喜欢什么?

时尚和旅行。我不认为我可以放弃这两件事。旅行给了我灵感,时尚让我将这种能量转化为有形的东西。

You mentioned you traveled in Asia some time, what was the trigger to choose that part of the world ?

Asia has captivated me because, first of all, it is completely different from any part of the world I have seen. I have mentioned that I love handmade things and am fascinated by details. The ubiquitous Chinese, Hindu and Buddhist temples are a paradise for my eyes and soul. I love Asian design of mega cities, local architecture. I assimilate perfectly with the locals and I have the impression that I am truly myself only in this part of the world. Social life consisting of shared meals at night markets while gossiping about the neighbouring stalls, dance routines in the parks with my aunts, taking a break in the crowded streets, being surrounded by nature in the mountains or rice fields, a pinch of glossy consumerism – this is all me. 🙂 This is definitely my part of the world, my home.

By the way, I am currently living in Asia and I am grateful for it every day. In the middle of December 2021 I went to Indonesia. I live in Bali and plan to stay here for the next six months. Then I want to live in my favourite cities in Asia for a few months at a time, and eventually I would like to settle in Taiwan. I mentioned in one question that I run a digital agency. It’s a 100% online business, which we have been working on for the past year and a half. This means that my place of residence makes no difference to clients.

And even living in a time zone +7 h away from Poland, I feel that my work is much more efficient and I am more creative. In Poland I used to do a lot of overtime working from morning to morning. Now I joke that I do ‘pre-time’, but I finally have my weekends off! When I get up, I have time for myself, then I get down to conceptual work and… nobody disturbs me because clients in Poland are asleep! Amazing. When they start work, it’s 3 p.m. here, and all the tasks are already ready on their mailbox, and I can enjoy the calls and do less thinking-intensive work in peace. 😉

A concept for a new collection is slowly starting to form in my head, which I hope to put into practice 100% in Taiwan this year. Or at least in another beautiful Asian country. 🙂

你提到你在亚洲旅行了一段时间,选择那个世界的触发因素是什么?

亚洲让我着迷,因为首先,它与我所见过的世界任何地方都完全不同。我已经提到我喜欢手工制作的东西并且对细节着迷。无处不在的中国、印度教和佛教寺庙是我眼睛和灵魂的天堂。我喜欢亚洲大城市的设计,当地的建筑。我与当地人完美地同化,我的印象是,我只在世界的这个地方才是真正的自己。社交生活包括在夜市共享餐点,在附近的摊位上闲聊,在公园里和阿姨们跳舞,在拥挤的街道上休息,在山里或稻田里被大自然包围,一点点光鲜的消费主义——这就是我。 🙂 这绝对是我的世界,我的家。

顺便说一句,我目前生活在亚洲,我每天都对此心存感激。2021年12月中旬,我去了印度尼西亚。我住在巴厘岛,计划在接下来的六个月里呆在这里。然后我想一次在我最喜欢的亚洲城市住几个月,最后我想在台湾定居。我在一个问题中提到我经营一家数字代理商。这是一个 100% 的在线业务,我们在过去一年半的时间里一直在努力。这意味着我的居住地对客户没有任何影响。

而且即使住在距离波兰 +7 小时的时区,我也觉得我的工作效率更高,更有创造力。在波兰,我过去常常从早到晚加班。现在我开玩笑说我会“提前”,但我终于有周末休息了!当我起床时,我有自己的时间,然后我开始做概念性的工作……没有人打扰我,因为波兰的客户都睡着了!惊人的。当他们开始工作时,已经是下午 3 点了。在这里,所有的任务都已经在他们的邮箱里准备好了,我可以安心地享受通话,少做一些思考密集的工作。;)

一个新系列的概念正在我脑海中慢慢形成,我希望今年能在台湾 100% 实施。或者至少在另一个美丽的亚洲国家。

Tokyo or Seoul ? Taipei or Hong Kong ? Shanghai or Beijing ? 

Your question is a bit cruel, haha! Seoul, Taipei and Shanghai! To clarify things, I love Hong Kong with a special love because it was the first city in Asia I’d ever been to, and it is so wonderful that I have no words to describe it. There is no other such unique place in the world. But considering that I would eventually like to live in Taiwan, which is in many ways (politics mainly) a better place to live, the scales have tipped on the Taipei side. 😉 And then there is Din Tai Fung there! (PS. I am curious about your answers!)

东京还是首尔?台北还是香港?上海还是北京?

你的问题有点残忍,哈哈!首尔、台北、上海!澄清一下,我以一种特别的爱爱香港,因为它是我去过的亚洲第一个城市,它是如此美妙,以至于我无法用言语来形容它。世界上没有其他如此独特的地方。但考虑到我最终想住在台湾,这在很多方面(主要是政治)是一个更好的居住地,天平已经倾斜到台北这边。 😉 然后就是鼎泰丰! (PS。我很好奇你的答案!)

What are your goals for 2022 ? 2033 ? 2044 ?

My goal is to be happy and live in harmony with myself. The world is changing fast and so are our desires and plans. Let’s be flexible and open to possibilities. And this the kind of happiness and satisfaction I wish you all with all my heart!

你 2022 年的目标是什么? 2033 年? 2044 ?

我的目标是快乐并与自己和谐相处。世界瞬息万变,我们的愿望和计划也在瞬息万变。让我们灵活应对各种可能性。而这种幸福和满足,我全心全意地祝愿你们!

Interview 作者: Grzegorz Bacinski

Fashion: Waleria Tokarzewska

Photos: Magdalena Czajka-Cardoso

Models: Natalia | MODEL PLUS

Kiyong | Weronika | UNITED for MODELS

Mua: Kropka make up art | Anna Duchała

Hair: Bartek Bożek | Kemon

Assistant: Julia Golińska i Kacper Pankau

Video: Paweł Galanty

Translation 翻译: Emi & Joyce

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