On July 2nd, David Koma unveiled his first standalone menswear runway during Berlin Fashion Week—an intimate, introspective chapter for the London-based designer best known for sculpted eveningwear worn by the likes of Beyoncé and Zendaya. Titled I Love David, the SS26 collection presented a kind of self-portrait, filtered through three archetypes: Michelangelo’s David, David Beckham, and Koma himself. The result was a study in masculinity, persona, and playful ego.
This triad showed up in distinct yet complementary ways. Beckham’s early-2000s allure inspired light-rinse distressed denim, aged leather trenches, and a tongue-in-cheek appliqué tee declaring “I LOVE DAVID”—a playful riff on the famous “I KISS FOOTBALL” jersey. References to Michelangelo’s sculptural ideal emerged in graphic motifs, draped tees, and “souvenir” crochet aprons that evoked classical marble with a modern twist
Intricate hand-embroidered hibiscus brooches—drawn from his travels—added familiar ornamentation and texture. As noted in the show notes: “Giant hand‑embroidered brooches bloom on lapels … gracing both refined eveningwear and everyday pieces”—an unmistakable Koma flourish
The silhouettes offered a sharp contrast to his glamorous womenswear, but retained his signature confidence. Sculptural denim played against sheer mesh and embroidered crystal hibiscus. Koma said the collection was “selfish”—designed for himself, not the market. Still, its cohesion and sex appeal suggest a sharp instinct for what modern menswear can be: vulnerable, sensual, and strong.
The choice of Berlin was more than symbolic. As one of 19 winners of the Berlin Contemporary program—a platform supporting forward-facing designers—Koma received funding and visibility. The designer also shares personal ties to the city and sees Berlin as a creative bridge to Eastern Europe, echoing his own Georgian heritage.
Faux fur made a bold appearance throughout—plush, oversized, and provocatively sensual. It disrupted any notion of minimalist masculinity. It brought a kind of exaggeration that felt very glamorous and assertive.
Although I Love David marks only his third menswear offering, it’s the first to take the spotlight on its own—and arrives during the brand’s 15th anniversary. But this wasn’t about launching a menswear line. Koma described it as a moment of creative indulgence—“to have fun and to explore different masculinities and identities.”
davidkoma.com // @davidkomalondon
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