At the heart of HADERLUMP’s newest collection, VARIUS, stands a legendary figure: Marlene Dietrich. She has long inspired HADERLUMP for her uncompromising freedom and fearless individuality. Dietrich confronted expectations and clichés head-on, embracing them while boldly defying convention on her own terms.
VARIUS explores the legacy of Marlene Dietrich, a woman renowned for her fearless individuality and her ability to play with identity. The name VARIUS РLatin for different, various, diverse Рrecalls Wintergarten Variet̩, one of the most significant variety theaters of the 20th century, where Dietrich is known to have performed in the early stages of her career.
HADERLUMP’s AW26 show marked a clear shift from previous seasons. Velvet curtains and a mirrored stage framed the Varieté space. Models moved slowly and deliberately. The finale, set to a string ensemble, ended in a striking tableau.
VARIUS spans elegant gowns, traditionally feminine dresses, and sharply cut trousers. Standouts included the Marlene pants, defined by a high waist, wide leg, and fluid drape. Popularized by Marlene Dietrich, the silhouette became a symbol of control and sovereignty. Pants allowed Dietrich to shape her image beyond that of a showgirl.
For the first time, HADERLUMP introduced lace, paired with leather, denim, and heavy wool. Softness met strength throughout. The palette stayed muted—grey, cream, brown, and black—with accents of red and blue. Tailoring took center stage, signaling a more refined and elegant direction.
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photography by James Cochrane
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34th issue of KEYI MAGAZINE with JEFF MILLS on the cover
