After working for big fish such as Wales Boner in London and Haider Ackerman in Antwerp, Martín decided to go back to Chile and build his own fashion battle front in the wonderful yet intense and complex Latin American region. Since the release of his first collection in 2018 for his eponymous label “Martín Luttecke”, the young Chilean designer has showed his country and the world that fashion can be a powerful means of expression and an endless source of beauty.
Martín L㉨ttecke, as a brand, describes itself as a unisex label that intends to portray Latin American diversity immerse in the digital era, and believes clothes are a tool for expression, experimentation and most of all: FUN.
Self-reflection is also a key element in Martín’s fashion proposal. Playing with gender, film references, emotions and the most delicately created colour palettes, he has so far presented us four truly beautiful collections that are journeys down our own minds. The fourth one being released just now, towards the end of what we all probably agree, has been one of the most hectic years of our lives.
What’s more triggering than thinking about your own defense mechanisms? The idea itself is something that automatically evokes conflicting feelings. Because if there’s something we do know about our ways of coping with unpleasant thoughts and experiences is that we don’t really see them or understand them properly. They come from the deepest and most unexplored parts of our minds. Psychological strategies that are unconsciously used to protect us from anxiety, frustration and confusion.
Defense methods’, that’s the name Martín gave his latest SS2021 collection, which brings to life the psychological idea of defense mechanisms, together with the infinite ways we, humans, find to defend ourselves from any type of threat. Fashion, and this collection especially, is definitely a defense method, however you would like to interpret that statement.
Martín Lüttecke SS21, as a fashion project, shares more than just a first name with Margiela. The collection manages to make its dystopian vibes comforting and reassuring, who knows how. The Chilean designer combines his exquisite way of sewing darts in the most precise places, his bold and tough aesthetics, utility vests, rough hybrid trainer heels and marine hats, with a soft pastel and mermaid iridescent green colour palette and a soothing yet disquieting countryside atmosphere. The juxtaposition of these elements creates some sort of queer guerrilla team that is way too beautiful to hide strategically but is ready to defend itself from any external or internal threat. His previous collection, Mental Enemies, was all about female confidence and vigor, an association of qualities unjustly uncommon. The collection, because of this, is a strong statement and addresses femininity from a very invigorating perspective. The models look like the villains the world needs, dressed in electric blue vegan leather and unexpectedly harmonious checkered print, in furry capes and yellow gloves, like the ones our mothers use to wash the dishes and save the world. Bodies are exhibited like art pieces and seem to vanish at the same time, or at least body standards vanish. No stereotypes embraced, no shame, no homogeneity. Solid structures, perfectly balanced shapes. The women in Martín’s garments seem to be saying ‘I’m here and here’s where I should be’.
Transposition’ and ‘Violent Thoughts’ are his other two previous collections. They all explore not only Latin American identity, self-reflection, experimentation and the funness of clothes, but they’re also a clear expression of the story-telling capacity fashion has. Teaming up with extremely talented and innovative stylists, photographers and make-up artists, Martín Lüttecke has become a story-teller, and a very good one indeed.
KEYI Magazine got in touch with Martín to discuss his latest collection, the core values of his brand and the state of fashion nowadays.
在为伦敦的Wales Boner和安特卫普的Haider Ackerman等大鱼大肉工作后，Martín决定回到智利，在美妙而又激烈复杂的拉美地区建立自己的时尚战线。自2018年为自己的同名品牌 “Martín Lüttecke “发布首个系列以来，这位年轻的智利设计师向自己的国家和世界展示了时尚可以是一种强大的表达方式和无穷的美感来源。
MartínLüttecke作为一个品牌，将自己描述为一个中性品牌，意在描绘沉浸在数字时代的拉丁美洲多样性，并相信衣服是表达、实验和最重要的工具：趣味。
自我反思也是Martín时装提案中的一个关键元素。通过对性别、电影的引用、情感和最精致的调色，他至今已经为我们呈现了四个真正美丽的系列，是我们自己的心灵之旅。在我们可能都认为这是我们生命中最忙碌的一年的尾声，第四个系列刚刚发布
有什么比思考自己的防御机制更容易引发？这个想法本身就是会自动唤起矛盾的感觉的东西。因为如果说我们对自己应对不愉快的想法和体验的方式有什么了解的话，那就是我们并没有真正看到它们，也没有正确理解它们。它们来自于我们头脑中最深层、最未被开发的部分。不自觉地用来保护我们免受焦虑、挫折和困惑的心理策略
防御方法”，这是Martín给他最新的2021春夏系列取的名字，它将防御机制的心理学理念与我们人类在任何类型的威胁中找到的无限方法结合在一起。时尚，尤其是这个系列，绝对是一种防御方法，无论你想怎么解释这句话。
MartínLüttecke21春夏系列，作为一个时尚项目，与Margiela分享的不仅仅是一个名字。这个系列设法让其荒诞的氛围变得舒适和安心，谁知道呢。智利设计师将他在最精确的地方缝制飞镖的精致方式、大胆而强硬的美学、实用背心、粗犷的混合训练鞋跟和海洋帽，与柔和的粉色和人鱼的虹彩绿配色以及舒缓而又令人不安的乡村氛围相结合。这些元素的并置，形成了某种基佬游击队，他们太美了，虽然在战略上隐藏得很好，但随时可以抵御任何外部或内部的威胁。他的上一个系列《精神敌人》，都是关于女性的自信和活力，这种品质的联想是不常见的。正因为如此，这个系列的表现力很强，从一个非常振奋人心的角度来解决女性的问题。模特们看起来就像世界上需要的恶棍，穿着电蓝色的素色皮革和出人意料的和谐格子印花，穿着毛茸茸的斗篷和黄色手套，就像我们的母亲用来洗碗和拯救世界的手套。身体像艺术品一样被展出，似乎同时也消失了，至少身体标准消失了。没有刻板印象的拥抱，没有羞耻感，没有同质化。坚实的结构，完美平衡的形状。Martín服装中的女性似乎在说“我在这里，这里就是我应该在的地方”。
《Transposition》和《ViolentThoughts》是他之前的另外两个系列。它们不仅探索了拉丁美洲的身份、自我反思、实验性和服装的趣味性，而且也清晰地表达了时装的故事性。与极富才华和创新精神的造型师、摄影师和化妆师合作，MartínLüttecke已经成为一个讲故事的人，而且是一个非常出色的人。
。KEYI杂志采访了Martín，讨论了他的最新系列，他的品牌核心价值和当今的时尚状态。
Both “Mental Enemies” and “Defense methods”, your two latest collections, are very psychological concepts. How did you come up with them and how do you think the collections themselves reflect these concepts?
I love a concept that is mysterious. That obsession comes from movie titles like “The Shining”, “High Fidelity”, “Sex lies and videotape”, titles that in a way make you want more. My titles come normally from books or my own writings and always relate to the story I want to tell, always very personal and autobiographical. I really don’t look for the audience to understand the concept perfectly, but I do like that they can feel something themselves and makes them think.
您最新的两个系列“心理敌人“和“防卫方法“都是非常心理学的概念。你是如何想到这些概念的，你认为这些系列本身是如何体现这些概念的？
我喜欢一个神秘的概念。 这种痴迷来自于电影标题，比如《闪灵》、《高保真》、《性爱谎言和录像带》，这些标题在某种程度上让你想知道更多。我的标题通常来自于书本或我自己的著作，而且总是和我想讲的故事有关，总是很个人化和自传性的。我真的不求观众能完美理解这个概念，但我喜欢他们能自己感受到一些东西，让他们思考。
Are defense methods a good or a bad thing? Are clothes a defense mechanism?
In my perspective, defense methods are a way of surpassing hard times, they are good, but also can bring consequences in the way we act, which can be tricky. I think clothes are actually a defense mechanism, but I like to think of it more as a way of having fun
防御方法是好事还是坏事？衣服是一种防御机制吗？
在我看来，防御方法是超越困难时期的一种方式，它们是好的，但也会给我们的行为方式带来后果，这很棘手。我觉得衣服其实也是一种防御机制，但我更喜欢把它当作一种玩乐的方式。
All your collections so far have had their own concept and aesthetic proposal which makes them very easily differentiated from one another. What is different about this new one? What new things did you incorporate to its creation?
I feel like I’m growing in the way that I know myself more, my aesthetic, and how I like to tell a story. For this one, I challenge myself with new materials like silk, sequence, and tapestry. Personally, there are details that make me really proud, the star shape darts on the silk pieces for example.
到目前为止，您的所有系列都有自己的概念和美学建议，这使得它们之间非常容易区分。这个新系列有什么不同？你在创作中加入了哪些新的东西？
我觉得我在成长，我更了解自己，我的审美，以及我喜欢如何讲述一个故事。这一次，我用新的材料挑战自己，比如丝绸、序列、挂毯。个人认为，有一些细节让我非常自豪，比如丝绸作品上的星形飞镖。
I know you have found inspiration in old films before, and that the core ideas of your collections usually come from the deep dark back of your mind. What was the external and internal inspiration for “Métodos de defensa”?
It’s fun because during quarantine I put myself the goal of watching all the movies from different directors, and I guess the ones I absorb the most were Michael Haneke and Wes Anderson, and actually, the collection mix those two really oppose aesthetics, it’s really dark but at the same time, it is really light, having this scout boy/girl aesthetic.
我知道你曾经在老电影中找到过灵感，你的系列的核心创意通常来自于你脑海深处的黑暗。”Métodos de defensa “的外部和内部灵感是什么？
这很有趣，因为在隔离期间，我给自己定的目标是看完所有不同导演的电影，我想我吸收最多的是迈克尔-哈内克和韦斯-安德森，实际上，这个系列混合了这两个非常对立的美学，它真的很黑暗，但同时，它真的很轻，有这种童子军/女孩的美学。
What do you love about fashion right now? And what about it frustrates you?
Actually, I have been watching less and less fashion lately. obviously, I still check my favorites like Rick Owens, Nicolas Ghesquière, Simone Rocha, but I think fashion needs to change, to be fun again, not so serious and dense, most of the times I feel like brands are trying too hard to be cool when really cool brand are the ones that are authentic to their own voices.
你喜欢现在的时尚是什么？又有哪些地方让你感到沮丧？
其实，我最近看时装的次数越来越少了，很明显，我还是会看看我最喜欢的Rick Owens、Nicolas Ghesquière、Simone Rocha，但我觉得时装需要改变，要重新变得有趣，不要那么严肃和密集，大多数时候，我觉得品牌们都太努力地去做酷了，而真正酷的品牌才是真实的自己的声音。
If you could choose 4 words to describe your brand…
I will say playful, queer, personal and emotional.
如果你可以选择4个词来描述你的品牌……。
我会说是好玩的，酷儿的，个人的，情感的。
Interview 作者：: Beca Montenegro
Translation 翻译: Emi
Photos照片： Noli Provoste
Link to print copy US:
https://www.magcloud.com/browse/issue/1925837
Link to print copy Europe / Russia
https://www.peecho.com/checkout/158887660228946068/985453/keyimagazine-22nd-ancientmethods-
