After working for big fish such as Wales Boner in London and Haider Ackerman in Antwerp, Martín decided to go back to Chile and build his own fashion battle front in the wonderful yet intense and complex Latin American region. Since the release of his first collection in 2018 for his eponymous label “Martín Luttecke”, the young Chilean designer has showed his country and the world that fashion can be a powerful means of expression and an endless source of beauty.
Martín L㉨ttecke, as a brand, describes itself as a unisex label that intends to portray Latin American diversity immerse in the digital era, and believes clothes are a tool for expression, experimentation and most of all: FUN.
Self-reflection is also a key element in Martín’s fashion proposal. Playing with gender, film references, emotions and the most delicately created colour palettes, he has so far presented us four truly beautiful collections that are journeys down our own minds. The fourth one being released just now, towards the end of what we all probably agree, has been one of the most hectic years of our lives.
What’s more triggering than thinking about your own defense mechanisms? The idea itself is something that automatically evokes conflicting feelings. Because if there’s something we do know about our ways of coping with unpleasant thoughts and experiences is that we don’t really see them or understand them properly. They come from the deepest and most unexplored parts of our minds. Psychological strategies that are unconsciously used to protect us from anxiety, frustration and confusion.
Defense methods’, that’s the name Martín gave his latest SS2021 collection, which brings to life the psychological idea of defense mechanisms, together with the infinite ways we, humans, find to defend ourselves from any type of threat. Fashion, and this collection especially, is definitely a defense method, however you would like to interpret that statement.
Martín Lüttecke SS21, as a fashion project, shares more than just a first name with Margiela. The collection manages to make its dystopian vibes comforting and reassuring, who knows how. The Chilean designer combines his exquisite way of sewing darts in the most precise places, his bold and tough aesthetics, utility vests, rough hybrid trainer heels and marine hats, with a soft pastel and mermaid iridescent green colour palette and a soothing yet disquieting countryside atmosphere. The juxtaposition of these elements creates some sort of queer guerrilla team that is way too beautiful to hide strategically but is ready to defend itself from any external or internal threat. His previous collection, Mental Enemies, was all about female confidence and vigor, an association of qualities unjustly uncommon. The collection, because of this, is a strong statement and addresses femininity from a very invigorating perspective. The models look like the villains the world needs, dressed in electric blue vegan leather and unexpectedly harmonious checkered print, in furry capes and yellow gloves, like the ones our mothers use to wash the dishes and save the world. Bodies are exhibited like art pieces and seem to vanish at the same time, or at least body standards vanish. No stereotypes embraced, no shame, no homogeneity. Solid structures, perfectly balanced shapes. The women in Martín’s garments seem to be saying ‘I’m here and here’s where I should be’.
Transposition’ and ‘Violent Thoughts’ are his other two previous collections. They all explore not only Latin American identity, self-reflection, experimentation and the funness of clothes, but they’re also a clear expression of the story-telling capacity fashion has. Teaming up with extremely talented and innovative stylists, photographers and make-up artists, Martín Lüttecke has become a story-teller, and a very good one indeed.
KEYI Magazine got in touch with Martín to discuss his latest collection, the core values of his brand and the state of fashion nowadays.
在为伦敦的Wales Boner和安特卫普的Haider Ackerman等大鱼大肉工作后，Martín决定回到智利，在美妙而又激烈复杂的拉美地区建立自己的时尚战线。自2018年为自己的同名品牌 “Martín Lüttecke “发布首个系列以来，这位年轻的智利设计师向自己的国家和世界展示了时尚可以是一种强大的表达方式和无穷的美感来源。
Both “Mental Enemies” and “Defense methods”, your two latest collections, are very psychological concepts. How did you come up with them and how do you think the collections themselves reflect these concepts?
I love a concept that is mysterious. That obsession comes from movie titles like “The Shining”, “High Fidelity”, “Sex lies and videotape”, titles that in a way make you want more. My titles come normally from books or my own writings and always relate to the story I want to tell, always very personal and autobiographical. I really don’t look for the audience to understand the concept perfectly, but I do like that they can feel something themselves and makes them think.
Are defense methods a good or a bad thing? Are clothes a defense mechanism?
In my perspective, defense methods are a way of surpassing hard times, they are good, but also can bring consequences in the way we act, which can be tricky. I think clothes are actually a defense mechanism, but I like to think of it more as a way of having fun
All your collections so far have had their own concept and aesthetic proposal which makes them very easily differentiated from one another. What is different about this new one? What new things did you incorporate to its creation?
I feel like I’m growing in the way that I know myself more, my aesthetic, and how I like to tell a story. For this one, I challenge myself with new materials like silk, sequence, and tapestry. Personally, there are details that make me really proud, the star shape darts on the silk pieces for example.
I know you have found inspiration in old films before, and that the core ideas of your collections usually come from the deep dark back of your mind. What was the external and internal inspiration for “Métodos de defensa”?
It’s fun because during quarantine I put myself the goal of watching all the movies from different directors, and I guess the ones I absorb the most were Michael Haneke and Wes Anderson, and actually, the collection mix those two really oppose aesthetics, it’s really dark but at the same time, it is really light, having this scout boy/girl aesthetic.
我知道你曾经在老电影中找到过灵感，你的系列的核心创意通常来自于你脑海深处的黑暗。”Métodos de defensa “的外部和内部灵感是什么？
What do you love about fashion right now? And what about it frustrates you?
Actually, I have been watching less and less fashion lately. obviously, I still check my favorites like Rick Owens, Nicolas Ghesquière, Simone Rocha, but I think fashion needs to change, to be fun again, not so serious and dense, most of the times I feel like brands are trying too hard to be cool when really cool brand are the ones that are authentic to their own voices.
其实，我最近看时装的次数越来越少了，很明显，我还是会看看我最喜欢的Rick Owens、Nicolas Ghesquière、Simone Rocha，但我觉得时装需要改变，要重新变得有趣，不要那么严肃和密集，大多数时候，我觉得品牌们都太努力地去做酷了，而真正酷的品牌才是真实的自己的声音。
If you could choose 4 words to describe your brand…
I will say playful, queer, personal and emotional.
Interview 作者：: Beca Montenegro
Translation 翻译: Emi
Photos照片： Noli Provoste
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