Benedetta Cresta fashion designer talks about her last collection AGORAPHOBIA / ENG + ํ•œ๊ตญ์–ด

Benedetta Cresta, Agoraphobia Collection

Benedetta Cresta, knitwear and fashion designer, told us all about her last collection and the collaborative work with Fattura Studio at Polimoda.

๋‹ˆํŠธ์›จ์–ด ๋ฐ ํŒจ์…˜ ๋””์ž์ด๋„ˆ ๋ฒ ๋„ค๋ฐํƒ€ ํฌ๋ ˆ์Šคํƒ€๊ฐ€ ์ž์‹ ์˜ ๋งˆ์ง€๋ง‰ ์ปฌ๋ ‰์…˜๊ณผ ํด๋ฆฌ๋ชจ๋‹ค์˜ ํŒŒํˆฌ๋ผ ์ŠคํŠœ๋””์˜ค์™€์˜ ํ˜‘์—…์— ๋Œ€ํ•ด ์ด์•ผ๊ธฐํ–ˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.

AGORAPHOBIA – NOT JUST WHAT YOU SEE

…is a collection that captures what the phobia represents: the feeling of fear (or serious discomfort) that a person feels in unfamiliar environments. Or in large open or crowded spaces, afraid of not being able to be in control.

This leads them to feel the need for an immediate escape route to a place they consider safer.

๊ด‘์žฅ๊ณตํฌ์ฆ – ๋ณด์ด๋Š” ๊ฒƒ๋งŒ์ด ์•„๋‹™๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.

โ€ฆ์€ ๋‚ฏ์„  ํ™˜๊ฒฝ์—์„œ ๋А๋ผ๋Š” ๋‘๋ ค์›€(๋˜๋Š” ์‹ฌ๊ฐํ•œ ๋ถˆํŽธํ•จ)์„ ๋‚˜ํƒ€๋‚ด๋Š” ๊ณตํฌ์ฆ์„ ํฌ์ฐฉํ•œ ์ปฌ๋ ‰์…˜์ž…๋‹ˆ๋‹ค. ๋˜๋Š” ๋„“๊ณ  ๊ฐœ๋ฐฉ๋œ ๊ณต๊ฐ„์ด๋‚˜ ํ˜ผ์žกํ•œ ๊ณต๊ฐ„์—์„œ ํ†ต์ œํ•  ์ˆ˜ ์—†์„๊นŒ๋ด ๋‘๋ ค์›Œํ•ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.

์ด๋กœ ์ธํ•ด ๋” ์•ˆ์ „ํ•˜๋‹ค๊ณ  ์ƒ๊ฐ๋˜๋Š” ์žฅ์†Œ๋กœ ์ฆ‰์‹œ ํƒˆ์ถœํ•  ์ˆ˜ ์žˆ๋Š” ๊ฒฝ๋กœ๊ฐ€ ํ•„์š”ํ•˜๋‹ค๊ณ  ๋А๋ผ๊ฒŒ ๋ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.

This collection is Crestaโ€™s way of conceptually analyzing that feeling. The inability or unwillingness to go outside of a comfort zone. A place where we feel safe, as well the place that prevents us from growing.

์ด ์ปฌ๋ ‰์…˜์€ ์ด๋Ÿฌํ•œ ๋А๋‚Œ์„ ๊ฐœ๋…์ ์œผ๋กœ ๋ถ„์„ํ•˜๋Š” ํฌ๋ ˆ์Šคํƒ€์˜ ๋ฐฉ์‹์ž…๋‹ˆ๋‹ค. ์•ˆ์ „์ง€๋Œ€๋ฅผ ๋ฒ—์–ด๋‚  ์ˆ˜ ์—†๊ฑฐ๋‚˜ ๋ฒ—์–ด๋‚˜๊ณ  ์‹ถ์ง€ ์•Š์€ ๋งˆ์Œ. ์šฐ๋ฆฌ๊ฐ€ ์•ˆ์ „ํ•˜๋‹ค๊ณ  ๋А๋ผ๋Š” ๊ณณ์ด์ž ์„ฑ์žฅ์„ ๋ฐฉํ•ดํ•˜๋Š” ๊ณณ์ด๊ธฐ๋„ ํ•ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.

Our works are based on abstract and metaphysical art as well as surrealism, with special care towards optical illusions and any other new possible way of creating perspectives.

์šฐ๋ฆฌ์˜ ์ž‘ํ’ˆ์€ ์ดˆํ˜„์‹ค์ฃผ์˜๋ฟ๋งŒ ์•„๋‹ˆ๋ผ ์ถ”์ƒ์ ์ด๊ณ  ํ˜•์ด์ƒํ•™์ ์ธ ์˜ˆ์ˆ ์— ๊ธฐ๋ฐ˜์„ ๋‘๊ณ  ์žˆ์œผ๋ฉฐ, ์ฐฉ์‹œ ํ˜„์ƒ๊ณผ ๊ธฐํƒ€ ๊ฐ€๋Šฅํ•œ ์ƒˆ๋กœ์šด ์‹œ๊ฐ์„ ์ฐฝ์กฐํ•˜๋Š” ๋ฐฉ๋ฒ•์— ํŠน๋ณ„ํ•œ ์ฃผ์˜๋ฅผ ๊ธฐ์šธ์ด๊ณ  ์žˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.

Benedetta Cresta

Each piece of the collection starts from a basic pattern, which is opened and transformed. From a one-kind piece of fabric, creating volumes going outside our standard silhouette, being part of them. The volumes create balance with the intention to enhance the body, not hide it.

์ปฌ๋ ‰์…˜์˜ ๊ฐ ์•„์ดํ…œ์€ ๊ธฐ๋ณธ ํŒจํ„ด์—์„œ ์‹œ์ž‘ํ•˜์—ฌ ์ด๋ฅผ ์—ด๊ณ  ๋ณ€ํ˜•ํ•ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค. ํ•œ ์ข…๋ฅ˜์˜ ์›๋‹จ์—์„œ ํ‘œ์ค€ ์‹ค๋ฃจ์—ฃ์„ ๋ฒ—์–ด๋‚œ ๋ณผ๋ฅจ์„ ๋งŒ๋“ค์–ด๋‚ด์–ด ๊ทธ ์ผ๋ถ€๊ฐ€ ๋˜๊ธฐ๋„ ํ•ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค. ๋ณผ๋ฅจ์€ ๋ชธ์„ ๊ฐ์ถ”๋Š” ๊ฒƒ์ด ์•„๋‹ˆ๋ผ ๋‹๋ณด์ด๊ฒŒ ํ•˜๋ ค๋Š” ์˜๋„๋กœ ๊ท ํ˜•์„ ์ด๋ฃน๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.

The ambiguity of this collection starts from the volume; that could be either something that goes outside the safe place and the representation of the safe place itself.

์ด ์ปฌ๋ ‰์…˜์˜ ๋ชจํ˜ธํ•จ์€ ๋ณผ๋ฅจ์—์„œ ์‹œ์ž‘๋˜๋Š”๋ฐ, ์ด๋Š” ์•ˆ์ „ํ•œ ์žฅ์†Œ๋ฅผ ๋ฒ—์–ด๋‚œ ๊ฒƒ์ผ ์ˆ˜๋„ ์žˆ๊ณ  ์•ˆ์ „ํ•œ ์žฅ์†Œ ์ž์ฒด๋ฅผ ํ‘œํ˜„ํ•œ ๊ฒƒ์ผ ์ˆ˜๋„ ์žˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.

AGORAPHOBIA analyzes the ambiguity of stereotypes imposed by society. The uniformโ€”like the tallieurโ€”our safe place is overturned. Giving life to shapes that envelop the body in a sinuous way. With draped shape inspired by the work of Patty Carroll, the photographer behind Anonymous Women, a book of photography series, where Carrollโ€™s images โ€œsymbolize the psychological states of women [โ€ฆ] by showing them hidden behind, and intertwined with, visually stunning domestic scenes.โ€

์•„๊ณ ๋ผํฌ๋น„์•„๋Š” ์‚ฌํšŒ๊ฐ€ ๊ฐ•์š”ํ•˜๋Š” ๊ณ ์ •๊ด€๋…์˜ ๋ชจํ˜ธํ•จ์„ ๋ถ„์„ํ•ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค. ํ‚ค๋‹ค๋ฆฌ ์•„์ €์”จ์ฒ˜๋Ÿผ ์šฐ๋ฆฌ์˜ ์•ˆ์ „์ง€๋Œ€๊ฐ€ ์ „๋ณต๋ฉ๋‹ˆ๋‹ค. ๋ชธ์„ ๊ตฌ๋ถˆ๊ตฌ๋ถˆํ•˜๊ฒŒ ๊ฐ์‹ธ๋Š” ํ˜•ํƒœ์— ์ƒ๋ช…์„ ๋ถˆ์–ด๋„ฃ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค. “์‹œ๊ฐ์ ์œผ๋กœ ๋ฉ‹์ง„ ๊ฐ€์ • ์žฅ๋ฉด ๋’ค์— ์ˆจ๊ฒจ์ ธ ์žˆ๊ฑฐ๋‚˜ ์–ฝํ˜€ ์žˆ๋Š” ์—ฌ์„ฑ์˜ ๋ชจ์Šต์„ ๋ณด์—ฌ์คŒ์œผ๋กœ์จ [โ€ฆ] ์—ฌ์„ฑ์˜ ์‹ฌ๋ฆฌ์  ์ƒํƒœ๋ฅผ ์ƒ์ง•ํ•˜๋Š”” ์‚ฌ์ง„์ง‘ ์‹œ๋ฆฌ์ฆˆ์ธ ์ต๋ช…์˜ ์—ฌ์„ฑ(Anonymous Women)์˜ ์‚ฌ์ง„์ž‘๊ฐ€ ํŒจํ‹ฐ ์บ๋กค์˜ ์ž‘ํ’ˆ์—์„œ ์˜๊ฐ์„ ๋ฐ›์€ ๋“œ๋ ˆ์ดํ”„ ํ˜•ํƒœ์ž…๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.

The Hellenistic Art universe influences the development of garments. Their marble seems soft, inspires the most voluminous dresses. Along with parts that perfectly follow the silhouette and others that deform it.

ํ—ฌ๋ ˆ๋‹ˆ์ฆ˜ ์˜ˆ์ˆ  ์„ธ๊ณ„๋Š” ์˜๋ณต์˜ ๋ฐœ์ „์— ์˜ํ–ฅ์„ ๋ฏธ์ณค์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค. ๋Œ€๋ฆฌ์„์˜ ๋ถ€๋“œ๋Ÿฌ์›€์€ ๊ฐ€์žฅ ๋ณผ๋ฅจ๊ฐ ์žˆ๋Š” ๋“œ๋ ˆ์Šค์— ์˜๊ฐ์„ ์ฃผ์—ˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค. ์‹ค๋ฃจ์—ฃ์„ ์™„๋ฒฝํ•˜๊ฒŒ ๋”ฐ๋ฅด๋Š” ๋ถ€๋ถ„๊ณผ ์‹ค๋ฃจ์—ฃ์„ ๋ณ€ํ˜•์‹œํ‚ค๋Š” ๋ถ€๋ถ„๋„ ์žˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.

With our project, we are carrying out an artistic-editorial experience, which aims to deeply mix art with fashion.

์ด ํ”„๋กœ์ ํŠธ๋ฅผ ํ†ตํ•ด ์šฐ๋ฆฌ๋Š” ์˜ˆ์ˆ ๊ณผ ํŒจ์…˜์„ ๊นŠ์ด ์žˆ๊ฒŒ ๊ฒฐํ•ฉํ•˜๋Š” ๊ฒƒ์„ ๋ชฉํ‘œ๋กœ ํ•˜๋Š” ์˜ˆ์ˆ ์ -ํŽธ์ง‘์  ๊ฒฝํ—˜์„ ์ง„ํ–‰ํ•˜๊ณ  ์žˆ์Šต๋‹ˆ๋‹ค.

Photograper: Dario Cerisano @dariocerisano

Production and styling coordinators: Claudia Chiarolanza & Benedetta Cresta

Creative and Art Director: Sarah Venturini @fattura_studio
Fashion byย Benedetta Cresta @benedetta.cresta
Fashion Assistant:ย Francesco Giuliani @franc_gi
Photography Assistant:ย Inman Duyser @inmannnn
Makeup and Hair: Vittoria Peruzziย @peruzzivittoriamua

Jewelry designer Arianna Fabianoย 

Shoes Vivetta

Models: Clara Guarnieri @cla_1717 & Lee Chen @chen_liz
Model’s Agency: Casting Firenze @castingfirenze & ABC Models Milan @abcmodelsmilan_official

Location: Eduardo Secci Contemporary Firenze  @secci_gallery